Archive for the “Personal Finance News” Category

By Nora Dunn

having a baby

More and more couples are deciding that having a family is not for them (others yet waiting longer to take the plunge), many citing their finances and a higher cost of living as a reason. While I believe that those who really want kids will always find a way to afford it, there may be some truth to this premise. Don’t “kid” yourself: children are high-priced and can financially ruin those who aren’t prepared for all the expenses – both obvious and otherwise.

Here are some financial considerations to plan and account for prior to sprouting your own little guys.

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By Nora Dunn

having a baby

More and more couples are deciding that having a family is not for them (others yet waiting longer to take the plunge), many citing their finances and a higher cost of living as a reason. While I believe that those who really want children will always find a way to afford it, there may be some truth to this premise. Don’t “kid” yourself: children are expensive and can financially ruin those who aren’t prepared for all the expenses – both obvious and otherwise.

Here are some financial considerations to plan and account for prior to sprouting your own little guys.

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By Linsey Knerl

I recently tried (and failed) a current Super Double Coupon promotion at my local Kmart. The bad news: I was unable to check out due to a glitch in their system, and I left all my items at the register. The good news: I shopped elsewhere and (surprisingly) saved so much more money.

To make a long story short, I prepared for the Super Double Coupon promotion at Kmart for days. I cut, sorted, stacked, and planned. I was so stoked to be able to double all my manufacturer’s coupons up to and including $2. There was money to be saved! After hours of shopping, however, I was faced with not being able to check out (details to come at a later date.) I left the store dismayed and headed over to Walmart, where they gladly accepted my coupons, my preferred method of payment, and my gratitude.

The experience was trying, but valuable. I learned a lot about store promotions and coupons in general. Here’s the dirt on a (sometimes) dirty practice:

  • Stores that double are often higher priced to begin with. An example is the $4.98 bottle of shampoo that I was going to purchase at Kmart with a $1.00 manufacturer’s coupon (which doubled, would have made the shampoo $2.98.) At Walmart, this same shampoo was only $3.89. With the same coupon (not doubled), it was only $2.89, and I didn’t need a special “promotion” to get it. Another example is the “sale priced” candle kit for “only” $8.99 at Kmart. With my $5 coupon (which didn’t double), it still cost me $3.99. Across the street at Target, they were selling it for an each day low price of $5.99. With my coupon, it was 99 cents. (No kidding.)
  • Stores that offer choose promotions don’t always keep product in stock. I was so pumped to see a particular body wash on sale for $2 at Kmart. With my $1 off coupon, the product would have been free. I say “would have” because they only carried a few on the shelf at a time. Less than a few hours after the promotion began, they were all gone. (It does me no good to get a “great deal” on something out of stock.) Rainchecks don’t help in this case, either.
  • These same stores can sometimes be selective in the sizes and styles they offer. An example is my favorite pain reliever, which comes in 24 caplets, 40 caplets, or 100 caplets. With a doubled $2 coupon, I should be able to buy the smallest sized bottle (priced at $3.98) for free – if Kmart even carried it. Walmart, on the other hand, carried all 3 sizes, and even had an exclusively-packaged size that included another sample for free. It was only a few cents more for this bonus package, and I walked away with far more product, for less money.
  • Some stores are not equipped to deal with coupons. The most aggravating part of the Kmart experience was how the register rang up the coupons. For about 50% of the coupons, they wouldn’t “attach” to the product they were being redeemed for. This prompted a tiny screen to pop up, asking the cashier which one of the 100 products it was intended for. She would then ask, “Was this for the bodywash, toothpaste, diapers, etc, etc,” going down the whole list. I would simply reply, “look at the coupon. It has a picture of diapers on it.” Walmart, on the other hand (and stores like Target) just scan the coupon and they are done.

Are there advantages to stores like Kmart offering Super Double Coupons? Sure, if you can go in for a few odd items and be satisfied. I, however, like to purchase all my goods at one location. I tend NOT to stockpile 56 bottles of shampoo. I like to use coupons only on things I’m buying anyway. I’m easy like that.

So for now, I’ll stick to my old couponing ways. These ways actually SAVE me money. They don’t lead me into buying hundreds of dollars of overpriced stuff to start with.

For those of you who were able to take advantage of the Kmart deal and made out ahead, I’m really happy for you. Seriously. (But did you’ve to take ALL of the bodywash?)

Permalink | 8 comments | Linsey Knerl“>Linsey Knerl's blog | Channel: Personal Finance, Frugal Living, Budgeting, Consumer Affairs, Shopping

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By Andrea Dickson

Using cash during financially-strapped times. Why cash is king in a way that Elvis never was. Get Rich Slowly

Did Cyber Monday live up to the hype? Does anything, ever? Well, anyway, world wide web traffic was up 30%.

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By Philip Brewer

Bicycle wheels

With the economy tanking, more and more people will be not just losing their job, but will be finding themselves without one for an extended period. When that happens it’s not good enough to just cut back a tiny and use debt to make ends meet until the economy recovers. Getting by without a job is possible, even for an extended period–but it requires taking drastic measures to cut spending, and it requires taking them early, while you’ve still got some cash.

This is part three of a four-part series. Part 1 was on the first things to do if you lose your job and part two was on boosting your income. Part 4 will be on getting what you need without money. Look for it here in a few days.

Despite the fact that it’s kind of hiding here as number 3 in a four-part series, this is really the kernel of how to get by without a job–you need to get your expenses low enough that you can cover them with just the money you can earn though casual labor plus whatever you can realize from whatever assets you’ve managed to hang on to (interest, dividends, rents, etc.).

Last year, when I suggested that it was possible to get by on a minimum wage job, I drew a considerable bit of mockery, so I’m anticipating much the same when I suggest ways to get by without a job at all. Let me restate what I said then: We’ve a name for the standard of living that results from living on a minimum wage income. We call it “Living in poverty.” Getting by with no job at all does not result in a higher standard of living–it is though, to my mind, an improvement. Minimum wage work is often difficult or dull (or both), and is too often dangerous as well. Eking out a meager existence on what you can earn through casual labor has the massive advantage of allowing you much greater choice in just what that labor is.

The biggest problem when it comes to surviving without a regular job is that most households have a terribly inflexible cost structure: Their bare minimum fixed expenses exceed any income that could be earned with casual labor. There’s no getting around this except to completely change the cost structure of the household.

Most people resist this step until they’ve done permanent damage to their finances–run up debts that they’ll never be able to pay back, had the heat and power turned off, or even been evicted.

It’s a hard step, but you’re way ahead of the game if you do this early rather than late.

Cutting fixed expenses

Most of the fixed costs for a household are tied up with housing. There’s the rent or mortgage, there’s the utilities, and there’s the insurance. If you own a house free and clear with no mortgage (or if the payments are very low), then it may make sense to stay there (even though just utilities and insurance can add up to as much as the cost of a cheap apartment). If you’re renting or have a mortgage, you need to look seriously at moving to the lowest-cost housing you can find–and start looking the instant you begin to suspect that this period of unemployment won’t be the sort of brief sojourn that people can generally anticipate during good economic times.

The most obvious thing to do is to move in with relatives. Many people view this as the sort of ignominious defeat that’s little superior than ending up living in their automobile, but it’s a step that can turn a catastrophe into just a bump in the road–if you do it early enough. If you wait until your savings are exhausted and you’ve run up a bunch of credit card debt, you can put yourself into a hole that you might not be able to get out of short of bankruptcy. One thing to keep in mind is that it is temporary. You’re not moving in with relatives forever, just until the economy improves enough that you can find steady work again.

If you don’t have relatives (or they won’t take you in), other sorts of house-sharing arrangements are possible, such as splitting costs with a roommate or renting a room in someone else’s home. Last year Myscha recommended twelve ways to home yourself for free.

The other really huge expense for a lot of people is transportation. Owning a automobile costs thousands of dollars a year–and only about half the expense is the purchase price and financing; the rest is just fuel, maintenance, taxes, and so on.

If your automobile is paid off, it may make sense to keep it; it would put some opportunities to earn money within reach that wouldn’t be if you had to rely on public transport or a bicycle or walking. But owing money on a car is just about untenable for someone without a job.

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By Julie Rains

students at graduation ceremony

Winning a scholarship takes effort, even to snag an award that’s relatively small ($500-$1,000) compared to the cost of attendance at a state university (more than $16,000 per year). But, depending on your financial circumstances, you’ll save on tuition now, and reduce the interest and principal on student loans later. And, if you can acquire multiple awards (which is easier once you land the first scholarship), you can rack up big savings. Even as an information junkie, I find sorting through the volume of information on scholarships overwhelming. So, I decided to get professional help. Here’s what I learned.

I spoke with Kimberly Stezala, author of Scholarships 101:

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By Philip Brewer

Closed for the Forseeable Future

Losing a job is always tough. During hard economic times–when it may not be possible to find another job as good as the one you’ve lost–it’s even tougher. Here are a few steps you can take right after losing a job to make sure that your financial house is in order, so that you can focus on your job search.

This is part one of a four-part series. This post is on the very first things to do after you lose your job. Parts two through four will be strategies for dealing with the worse-case scenario–what to do if you can’t find a job to replace the one you’ve lost. Look for them here over the next few days.

Having lost several over the years, I know first-hand how hard it is to lose a job. It’s insulting–even if you get the tiny speech on how it’s due to economic conditions and not your performance, unless the whole place is getting shut down you’ve to face the fact that you were let go and other people weren’t. It’s also frightening–because you’re facing a bunch of unknowns.

Many of those unknowns are going to stay unknown for a while longer, but some of them can be figured out pretty swiftly. Here’s a short list of things I suggest you do right away, to make a few of those unknowns a tiny more known.

Nail down the cash

I read an article once, by a financial writer who had attended a class taught by a business turn-around specialist. The specialist had asked his students what the first thing to do was after taking over a troubled business. The students had many suggestions–layoff workers, promise workers that they wouldn’t be laid off, cut (or boost) spending on R&D or marketing, etc. The specialist, though, dismissed all those recommendations. The first thing to do was to nail down the cash–make sure that nothing gets spent without your approval.

That’s also step one if you lose your job. It comes in two phases.

Phase one is making sure everyone in the household knows that spending needs to be taken off automatic. You don’t necessarily need to make drastic cuts in spending (although you might), but you definitely need to make sure that every spending decision is a decision, not just an automatic continuation of whatever you were doing before. In particular, make sure you know about any automatic debits that are going to hit your account–and if there are any for things that are non-essential, make sure you know how to get them stopped and what dates you’ve to take action if you decide that you do want any stopped.

Phase two is to produce a bare-bones budget. You need to know what your household finances will look like if you move to an emergency footing. Your bare-bones budget should include all your unavoidable financial obligations (rent, utilities, groceries, etc.) and should exclude anything that you can avoid or postpone. (I wrote about this a couple of weeks ago in a post called Emergency belt-tightening.)

Just having a bare-bones budget doesn’t mean you have to cut your spending to the bone right now (although for some people that might be the wise choice). Depending on your job prospects and the size of your emergency fund, you may be able to phase in cuts to your spending. But you need to make sure that you’re in control.

Once you’re in control, the next thing to do is to take care of some of those unknowns. There are, of course, a bunch a career unknowns (Will you find another job? Will you have to change careers?), but this post is just about the financial unknowns.

Do a financial projection

You probably came home with a packet of information from your former employer that spells out when you’ll get your last paycheck, whether you get any severance pay, and perhaps some info on things like keeping your health insurance in effect. Between that information, the bare-bones budget that you just came up with, and the most current statements for your checking, savings, and investment accounts, you’ve most of the information you need to do a financial projection.

First, lay out your expected income. This might include a final paycheck and perhaps a severance payment. If you qualify, it might include unemployment insurance payments (one piece of information that you might not have for several days). If you have substantial savings and investments, you may have some interest or dividends that you can include in your projections. (Don’t include any that are in IRAs or 401(k)s that you can’t access without paying a penalty.) If you have some sort of side business, include estimated income from that. If your spouse works, include the income you can anticipate from his or her paycheck.

Against your projected income, lay out your barebones budget. If your income exceeds your expenses–congratulations! You’re done. You can skip the rest of this and get on with your job search.

For most people, though, losing a job means that their expenses will exceed their income. If that’s the case for you, mark down on your financial projection a series of transfers from savings that fund your bare-bones spending.

Of course, your savings only goes so far. Make a note of the date that you can anticipate it to run out, if you don’t come up with either some additional economizations or some additional cash.

Now that you know how long you’ve got, the third thing I recommend you do is to make a plan for how you’ll use that time.

Set some deadlines

You’ll probably start by looking for a job that’s at least as good as the one you’ve left. With luck, you’ll find one swiftly. I advocate, though, that you set a date when you’ll expand your search to include jobs that are a step down, and perhaps a second date when you need to begin looking seriously for any kind of work you can get.

If you have assets that you might be able to sell–in particular, stocks or mutual funds that aren’t in a 401(k) or IRA, but also things like a car, a motorcycle, a boat or a house–make a schedule. Figure out when you’d need to get the money from such a sale in order to keep your bare-bones budget funded, then estimate when you’d need to put the item up for sale in order to reasonably anticipate to have the cash in hand on the date you need it. (That’s an simple calculation for stocks–the sale settles in three days and you can probably have the cash transfered to your checking account within two days after that. For something like a boat or a motorcycle, you might have to figure that it’d be impossible to sell it until spring.)

One result of this planning will be an estimated date for when you’ll be absolutely tapped out–no assets, no savings. There are things you can do to address such dire circumstances, and most of them are easier if you do them before you’re flat broke. Pick a date some weeks earlier as the date that you’ll start taking drastic action (such as not paying the rent or utility bills), in order to conserve cash. That’s strictly a short-term move, and an pricey one at that–you’ll end up owing even more due to late fees and charges–but being evicted is a tiny easier to handle if you’ve got some cash than if you’ve got zip.

After the planning

It may seem morbid and depressing to look that far down the road as soon as you lose a job. The advantage, though, is that you don’t have the uncertainty hanging over your head all through your job search. You’ve already decided when you’ll need to take any drastic measures. Until then, you can focus on your job search.

The rest of this series is what to do in the case that, as sometimes happens during hard times, you don’t manage to find a job to replace the one you’ve lost.

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By Xin Lu

Credit Cards

This day a new rescue program called the Term Asset-Backed Securities Loan Facility (TALF) was announced by the Treasury and Federal Reserve to support owners of securities backed by credit card debt, student loans, auto loans, and loans approved by the Small Business Administration.

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By Paul Michael

money money money, must be funny

In my recent post about eBay Motors, I recounted the story of a seemingly worthless car that sold for over $226,000. But this next story is bizarre. What turned out as a sarcastic but funny prank ended up being worth $10,000.

The original story did the rounds over the last few weeks. I have to admit, I laughed reading it. I’m sure some people frown on this behavior, just as they dislike Crank Yankers and Jerky Boys; but in my view, it’s worth a chuckle.

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By Nora Dunn

having a baby

More and more couples are deciding that having a family is not for them (others yet waiting longer to take the plunge), many citing their finances and a higher cost of living as a reason. While I believe that those who really want kids will always find a way to afford it, there might be some truth to this premise. Don’t “kid” yourself: children are costly and can financially ruin those who aren’t prepared for all the expenses – both obvious and otherwise.

Here are some financial considerations to plan and account for prior to sprouting your own little guys.

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